INDIA MY LOVE
PUBLISHED IN THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY, MARCH 2016
“India is not just geography or history. It is not only a nation, a country, a mere piece of land. It is something more: it is a metaphor, poetry, something invisible, but very tangible. It is vibrating with certain energy fields no other country can claim. For almost ten thousand years, thousands of people have reached the ultimate explosion of consciousness. Their vibration is still alive, their impact is in the very air; you just need a certain perceptivity, a certain capacity to receive the invisible that surrounds this strange land. If you come here with a little bit of a meditative mind, you will come in contact with it. If you come here just as a tourist, you will miss it. You will see the ruins, the palaces, the Taj Mahal, the temples, Khajuraho, the Himalayas, but you will not see India – you will have passed through India without meeting it” - OSHO
INDIA, MY LOVE
My most memorable moments so far...
1. A Wedding and a Funeral, Kerala, August, 2001
I first landed in Kerala on the Malabar Coast and a black ambassador car came to pick me up from the airport. We drove for over 4 hours through fields of verdant green and I immediately began to see why this state is known as ‘God’s Own Land’. Upon arrival at my destination in the small town of Kottayam a beautiful woman opened the door to her home and welcomed me inside. Rani and her husband were both bank managers, and they had two children Apu who was studying to become an engineer and Deepa who was away in Madras to study medicine. Rani’s cousin was the Dean of the University I would attend, as well as a priest with a degree in Comparative Religion, and he had made arrangements for me to stay at Rani’s home because he thought that since they were a well-travelled family who had been to Europe, we would get on. His intuition was right.
A big bright house, it was luxurious for a small town. I had my own quarters overlooking the abundant garden, with papaya trees and flowers in full bloom. Rani was an amazing hostess. Despite working full-time and driving her husband to work each day on her way to the office, she also used to cook extremely well and invite guests over for tea quite regularly.
Although Rani’s household was Christian, our neighbours were a Hindu ashram. When they found out there was a foreign guest we were all invited over for a Wedding. It was a beautiful celebration to witness however I couldn’t help but notice how unhappy the young bride looked. Hopefully it was just nerves on her wedding day but I remember thinking this must be an arranged marriage and not a happy ‘love marriage’ as they call them. Later that day my hosts decided that I should feed the elephant brought in as part of the celebrations. I agreed and he was literally guided into the garden. It was fun if a little daunting to feed him but I did manage and we all had a laugh!
Some time shortly after the wedding, the female priestess of the Hindu community passed away and a funeral was organised. A procession of priests in orange and white robes carried in her body, presumably for burial or burning, and rituals were done all through the night - yet another incredible experience for me to witness.
INDIA, MY LOVE
My most memorable moments so far...
1. A Wedding and a Funeral, Kerala, August, 2001
I first landed in Kerala on the Malabar Coast and a black ambassador car came to pick me up from the airport. We drove for over 4 hours through fields of verdant green and I immediately began to see why this state is known as ‘God’s Own Land’. Upon arrival at my destination in the small town of Kottayam a beautiful woman opened the door to her home and welcomed me inside. Rani and her husband were both bank managers, and they had two children Apu who was studying to become an engineer and Deepa who was away in Madras to study medicine. Rani’s cousin was the Dean of the University I would attend, as well as a priest with a degree in Comparative Religion, and he had made arrangements for me to stay at Rani’s home because he thought that since they were a well-travelled family who had been to Europe, we would get on. His intuition was right.
A big bright house, it was luxurious for a small town. I had my own quarters overlooking the abundant garden, with papaya trees and flowers in full bloom. Rani was an amazing hostess. Despite working full-time and driving her husband to work each day on her way to the office, she also used to cook extremely well and invite guests over for tea quite regularly.
Although Rani’s household was Christian, our neighbours were a Hindu ashram. When they found out there was a foreign guest we were all invited over for a Wedding. It was a beautiful celebration to witness however I couldn’t help but notice how unhappy the young bride looked. Hopefully it was just nerves on her wedding day but I remember thinking this must be an arranged marriage and not a happy ‘love marriage’ as they call them. Later that day my hosts decided that I should feed the elephant brought in as part of the celebrations. I agreed and he was literally guided into the garden. It was fun if a little daunting to feed him but I did manage and we all had a laugh!
Some time shortly after the wedding, the female priestess of the Hindu community passed away and a funeral was organised. A procession of priests in orange and white robes carried in her body, presumably for burial or burning, and rituals were done all through the night - yet another incredible experience for me to witness.
2. Mahatma Gandhi University
I attended about 9 months of University – the scholarship which brought me to India in the first place. It was quite a humble university yet with a very big campus. Amongst thousands of students we were only three foreigners – an English girl, a Japanese girl and myself. I remember using an umbrella to shelter myself from the sun and the stares! The course in Gandhian Philosophy and Peace Studies was quite interesting, but I found the department’s library even more interesting as it was full of Indian classics from the beginning of time such as ‘The Vedic Experience’ which reads like a book of physics written by mystics. My classmates were all very sweet and included me in any events. Some even invited me to their homes. Everybody was very kind and welcoming and the Dean often visited me at Rani’s house.
3. Amma’s Ashram, 2001
I had been living in Kerala for a few months when I finally felt brave enough to take the train to Amma’s Ashram. Amma is an Indian guru known as the Hugging Mother and what fascinated me about her is that she spends each day hugging hundreds upon hundreds of visitors without tiring. Every day there are long queues of Indians as well as Western devotees waiting to hug her. The second time I visited her it happened to be her birthday celebration. Unbeknownst to me this meant a flood of millions of visitors from all over India also visited her that day! For someone who dislikes crowds with a passion, I did amazingly well. Everyone was on their best behaviour and I was escorted to a barge which took us across the river. This was a surreal moment for me as I had never crossed such a large river in the company of so many people before. I was given a room in the tower with two Israeli girls, we instantly made friends and climbed the tower together so as to enjoy the view which was absolutely breathtaking. A 360 degrees panoramic view of lush coconut trees. A neverending expanse of nature under the stars. Infinity at our fingertips.
I attended about 9 months of University – the scholarship which brought me to India in the first place. It was quite a humble university yet with a very big campus. Amongst thousands of students we were only three foreigners – an English girl, a Japanese girl and myself. I remember using an umbrella to shelter myself from the sun and the stares! The course in Gandhian Philosophy and Peace Studies was quite interesting, but I found the department’s library even more interesting as it was full of Indian classics from the beginning of time such as ‘The Vedic Experience’ which reads like a book of physics written by mystics. My classmates were all very sweet and included me in any events. Some even invited me to their homes. Everybody was very kind and welcoming and the Dean often visited me at Rani’s house.
3. Amma’s Ashram, 2001
I had been living in Kerala for a few months when I finally felt brave enough to take the train to Amma’s Ashram. Amma is an Indian guru known as the Hugging Mother and what fascinated me about her is that she spends each day hugging hundreds upon hundreds of visitors without tiring. Every day there are long queues of Indians as well as Western devotees waiting to hug her. The second time I visited her it happened to be her birthday celebration. Unbeknownst to me this meant a flood of millions of visitors from all over India also visited her that day! For someone who dislikes crowds with a passion, I did amazingly well. Everyone was on their best behaviour and I was escorted to a barge which took us across the river. This was a surreal moment for me as I had never crossed such a large river in the company of so many people before. I was given a room in the tower with two Israeli girls, we instantly made friends and climbed the tower together so as to enjoy the view which was absolutely breathtaking. A 360 degrees panoramic view of lush coconut trees. A neverending expanse of nature under the stars. Infinity at our fingertips.
4. Varkala Beach
After some time back in Kottayam being a good student I needed a bit of freedom and for Christmas I travelled to Varkala Beach which is an incredibly beautiful place. The beach is beneath a stunning red cliff top where you will find all kinds of Yoga Shalas & Ayruvedic treatments. I had the pleasure of staying with my friend Paul who had a house on Hillock Moon. When you have lived in India for some months, having a close friend cook for you Italian pasta is a real treat!
5. Pondicherry
In Kerala I had come across some books about Sri Aurobindo and the Mother at the University Bookshop. His poetry and writings sparked my interest and I decided I wanted to visit their ashram in Pondicherry on the East coast, close to Chennai formerly known as Madras, when my studies were over. You can basically travel across the continent overnight by train in about 22 hours if I’m not mistaken. It was a smooth ride in that I had nice people around me, we bought snacks together and shared them and I vaguely remember some young Indian travellers showing me their art and sketches to pass the time. You can imagine after such a long train ride I arrived in Pondicherry at the break of dawn feeling a bit disoriented. But I was extremely lucky to find nice accommodation at an incredibly low price upon arrival.
In my rooms there was a shrine to Sri Aurobindo and the Mother and their black and white photos surrounded in garlands of flowers were so beautiful they moved me to tears. The Ashram where Sri Aurobindo and the Mother had their living quarters in the past and their bodies are now buried was very well looked after, and had the feel of a serene spiritual museum with a touch of nostalgia. The library was fascinating, I bought some beautiful books and absolutely loved it there.
Pondicherry is a very charming seaside town. It used to be a French colony which means there is this European aesthetic to it. The place felt familiar. It was a bit like visiting some arty part of Paris with an Indian twist. And most of the travellers I met were artists, writers or musicians. I made friends with a French artist who showed us his art studio and we used to visit him almost daily on our scooters. Some other friends took me to a mysterious temple nearby. Somehow I started to feel braver as a traveller by now, meeting lots of friends along the way to make the journey easier and even more interesting.
After some time back in Kottayam being a good student I needed a bit of freedom and for Christmas I travelled to Varkala Beach which is an incredibly beautiful place. The beach is beneath a stunning red cliff top where you will find all kinds of Yoga Shalas & Ayruvedic treatments. I had the pleasure of staying with my friend Paul who had a house on Hillock Moon. When you have lived in India for some months, having a close friend cook for you Italian pasta is a real treat!
5. Pondicherry
In Kerala I had come across some books about Sri Aurobindo and the Mother at the University Bookshop. His poetry and writings sparked my interest and I decided I wanted to visit their ashram in Pondicherry on the East coast, close to Chennai formerly known as Madras, when my studies were over. You can basically travel across the continent overnight by train in about 22 hours if I’m not mistaken. It was a smooth ride in that I had nice people around me, we bought snacks together and shared them and I vaguely remember some young Indian travellers showing me their art and sketches to pass the time. You can imagine after such a long train ride I arrived in Pondicherry at the break of dawn feeling a bit disoriented. But I was extremely lucky to find nice accommodation at an incredibly low price upon arrival.
In my rooms there was a shrine to Sri Aurobindo and the Mother and their black and white photos surrounded in garlands of flowers were so beautiful they moved me to tears. The Ashram where Sri Aurobindo and the Mother had their living quarters in the past and their bodies are now buried was very well looked after, and had the feel of a serene spiritual museum with a touch of nostalgia. The library was fascinating, I bought some beautiful books and absolutely loved it there.
Pondicherry is a very charming seaside town. It used to be a French colony which means there is this European aesthetic to it. The place felt familiar. It was a bit like visiting some arty part of Paris with an Indian twist. And most of the travellers I met were artists, writers or musicians. I made friends with a French artist who showed us his art studio and we used to visit him almost daily on our scooters. Some other friends took me to a mysterious temple nearby. Somehow I started to feel braver as a traveller by now, meeting lots of friends along the way to make the journey easier and even more interesting.
6. The Auroville Experience
The Mother was a distinguished lady of French and Egyptian origin who moved to India from Paris in the 1920s. She was an accomplished artist, and also excelled as a pianist and writer. When Sri Aurobindo Ashram was formed in 1926, he entrusted its charge to the Mother. Under her guidance, which continued for nearly fifty years, the Ashram grew into a large, spiritual community and in 1968 she established an international township called Auroville which still exists today. It is thanks to her that the Matrimandir was built. To look upon her creation one would be forgiven to think you have suddenly found yourself in some kind of futuristic sci-fi film. Matrimandir is quite a spectacular sight both from the glowing outside and inside where a big crystal is found, for people to meditate around. This big luminous sphere is surrounded by enchanting gardens, including a boutique shop and a growing community of residences for those who want to live in Auroville. The Mother's Dream came true I guess, as a thriving international community lives there peacefully together even up to this very day.
7. The Osho International Meditation Resort, Pune, 2004
My next visit would be to the Osho International Meditation Resort in Koregaon Park for a 5 month residential programme where you get to work for 6 hours a day in exchange of a free entry pass. The whole concept is to transform work into meditation, and to teach you that you can meditate anywhere and at any time and that you can stay centred even during your daily activities. The Resort is another beautiful place frequented by many visitors from all over the world interested in the arts and meditation. It is a highly well-organised place – there is a pool area, archery, a Zennis court, a gourmet restaurant, a gym, and even a coffee bar where they make the best cappuccinos. I did some writing for the ‘Osho Times’ Magazine. We would be finished by 4pm and one could go for tea and Kundalini meditation which is basically similar to dancing to Indian classical music. During the day they had art classes, while at night they would organise meditations in the Bamboo Grove. It was so incredibly beautiful and serene! I fell in love with Koregaon Park and hoped to return there in the near future.
The Mother was a distinguished lady of French and Egyptian origin who moved to India from Paris in the 1920s. She was an accomplished artist, and also excelled as a pianist and writer. When Sri Aurobindo Ashram was formed in 1926, he entrusted its charge to the Mother. Under her guidance, which continued for nearly fifty years, the Ashram grew into a large, spiritual community and in 1968 she established an international township called Auroville which still exists today. It is thanks to her that the Matrimandir was built. To look upon her creation one would be forgiven to think you have suddenly found yourself in some kind of futuristic sci-fi film. Matrimandir is quite a spectacular sight both from the glowing outside and inside where a big crystal is found, for people to meditate around. This big luminous sphere is surrounded by enchanting gardens, including a boutique shop and a growing community of residences for those who want to live in Auroville. The Mother's Dream came true I guess, as a thriving international community lives there peacefully together even up to this very day.
7. The Osho International Meditation Resort, Pune, 2004
My next visit would be to the Osho International Meditation Resort in Koregaon Park for a 5 month residential programme where you get to work for 6 hours a day in exchange of a free entry pass. The whole concept is to transform work into meditation, and to teach you that you can meditate anywhere and at any time and that you can stay centred even during your daily activities. The Resort is another beautiful place frequented by many visitors from all over the world interested in the arts and meditation. It is a highly well-organised place – there is a pool area, archery, a Zennis court, a gourmet restaurant, a gym, and even a coffee bar where they make the best cappuccinos. I did some writing for the ‘Osho Times’ Magazine. We would be finished by 4pm and one could go for tea and Kundalini meditation which is basically similar to dancing to Indian classical music. During the day they had art classes, while at night they would organise meditations in the Bamboo Grove. It was so incredibly beautiful and serene! I fell in love with Koregaon Park and hoped to return there in the near future.
8. Living in Moghul Gardens, Koregaon Park, Pune, 2007
In 2007 I lived in Koregaon Park in Pune, Maharashtra for a year. Somehow I landed a job as an Editor for an American publishing company and this enabled me to work from home and set my own hours. Koregaon Park is quite an upmarket area – grand colonial villas, with green and plush surroundings - I have some great memories there.
However despite most locals being well-off and well-educated the reality is there are also quite a few beggars - mostly orphaned children and old people unfortunately. The Indian Government’s policy is that foreigners should not give money to beggars, yet I don’t see why tourists with some money to spare cannot share. If you were in my shoes and you saw a beggar without hands and feet, disabled to a point that he cannot earn a living, sitting in the street and smiling at you, you wouldn’t spare him a few rupees? Honestly this sweet old man used to be so happy to see me I think I made his day as much as he made mine. Priceless!
9. Bombay Dreams
Whilst living in Pune, one fine day an Italian friend of mine and I decided we wanted to visit the Saraswati Temple to the Goddess of Art and Poetry. Things didn’t quite go to plan. While we were happily chatting in our rickshaw, some guy on a motorbike with a bandanna wrapped around his face reached in and grabbed my handbag. Unfortunately quite uncharacteristically I had my passport with me that day. In the end every cloud has a silver lining. I needed to organise a new passport and the Maltese Consul in Bombay was very helpful. I spent a day with the Consul’s family and they took me out for lunch at a private Polo Club where he spent some time reminiscing about the times he and his wife lived happily in Malta some 10 years before. So what may have appeared to be a hassle at first turned into a pleasant experience, and I also got to see a picturesque side to Bombay which I had never seen before. The gothic architecture by the sea made up for my initial airport impressions and I finally got to visit for the first time this bustling city with an estimated city population of 18.4 million.
Bombay, like any big city, can be quite overwhelming with its intense traffic, so if you ever have to visit I recommend staying in a boutique hotel such as the Waterstones Hotel. This hotel is very creative in concept, comfortable and contemporary in design – it is the perfect place to unwind before catching your plane home.
In 2007 I lived in Koregaon Park in Pune, Maharashtra for a year. Somehow I landed a job as an Editor for an American publishing company and this enabled me to work from home and set my own hours. Koregaon Park is quite an upmarket area – grand colonial villas, with green and plush surroundings - I have some great memories there.
However despite most locals being well-off and well-educated the reality is there are also quite a few beggars - mostly orphaned children and old people unfortunately. The Indian Government’s policy is that foreigners should not give money to beggars, yet I don’t see why tourists with some money to spare cannot share. If you were in my shoes and you saw a beggar without hands and feet, disabled to a point that he cannot earn a living, sitting in the street and smiling at you, you wouldn’t spare him a few rupees? Honestly this sweet old man used to be so happy to see me I think I made his day as much as he made mine. Priceless!
9. Bombay Dreams
Whilst living in Pune, one fine day an Italian friend of mine and I decided we wanted to visit the Saraswati Temple to the Goddess of Art and Poetry. Things didn’t quite go to plan. While we were happily chatting in our rickshaw, some guy on a motorbike with a bandanna wrapped around his face reached in and grabbed my handbag. Unfortunately quite uncharacteristically I had my passport with me that day. In the end every cloud has a silver lining. I needed to organise a new passport and the Maltese Consul in Bombay was very helpful. I spent a day with the Consul’s family and they took me out for lunch at a private Polo Club where he spent some time reminiscing about the times he and his wife lived happily in Malta some 10 years before. So what may have appeared to be a hassle at first turned into a pleasant experience, and I also got to see a picturesque side to Bombay which I had never seen before. The gothic architecture by the sea made up for my initial airport impressions and I finally got to visit for the first time this bustling city with an estimated city population of 18.4 million.
Bombay, like any big city, can be quite overwhelming with its intense traffic, so if you ever have to visit I recommend staying in a boutique hotel such as the Waterstones Hotel. This hotel is very creative in concept, comfortable and contemporary in design – it is the perfect place to unwind before catching your plane home.
10. Arambol and Candolim Beach, Goa 2012 onwards
When you are working full-time, Goa is a great place for a simple, relaxing vacation. If you can make it there for a two week break or a month it will be worth your while, since it is a good place to recharge your batteries and get away from it all.
For social people who love to make new friends and hang out at cool cafes Arambol beach is the place to be. Not as hectic as the now famous Anjuna beach, it is quite chilled comparatively, but there’s lots to do - from music to poetry and movie nights, eating healthy nutritious food and exploring your surroundings - it’s a great place with a fun international vibe. And if you are a bit adventurous the Wednesday Anjuna Flea Market is only a taxi ride away.
One night I moved to Ashwem beach and befriended some Italian women – must be the Mediterranean connection. We stayed in a beautiful villa right on the beach and had a brilliant time cooking and talking about life in India. But my favourite beach of all time remains the quieter Candolim frequented mostly by mature travellers from the Osho Meditation Resort who tend to visit every season. The guesthouses are affordable, clean and pretty. Everyone is quite friendly and laid back. Pete’s Shack serves the most amazing healthy food – fresh fruit and juices, pancakes with honey, and as I discovered - Kingfisher the fish and Kingfisher the beer go very well together. Of course you can also sample some savoury Indian classic tandoori dishes cooked to perfection.
In my morning walk to the beach a waiter would call out to me: “Good morning Miss Malta” and I would reply: “Good Morning Mr Darjeeling!” It’s the perfect place to sunbathe, relax and enjoy the beach during the daytime and catch up with friends at night. Just writing about it makes me want to visit again in a few years’ time. At this rate I am never going to visit the Taj Mahal!
When you are working full-time, Goa is a great place for a simple, relaxing vacation. If you can make it there for a two week break or a month it will be worth your while, since it is a good place to recharge your batteries and get away from it all.
For social people who love to make new friends and hang out at cool cafes Arambol beach is the place to be. Not as hectic as the now famous Anjuna beach, it is quite chilled comparatively, but there’s lots to do - from music to poetry and movie nights, eating healthy nutritious food and exploring your surroundings - it’s a great place with a fun international vibe. And if you are a bit adventurous the Wednesday Anjuna Flea Market is only a taxi ride away.
One night I moved to Ashwem beach and befriended some Italian women – must be the Mediterranean connection. We stayed in a beautiful villa right on the beach and had a brilliant time cooking and talking about life in India. But my favourite beach of all time remains the quieter Candolim frequented mostly by mature travellers from the Osho Meditation Resort who tend to visit every season. The guesthouses are affordable, clean and pretty. Everyone is quite friendly and laid back. Pete’s Shack serves the most amazing healthy food – fresh fruit and juices, pancakes with honey, and as I discovered - Kingfisher the fish and Kingfisher the beer go very well together. Of course you can also sample some savoury Indian classic tandoori dishes cooked to perfection.
In my morning walk to the beach a waiter would call out to me: “Good morning Miss Malta” and I would reply: “Good Morning Mr Darjeeling!” It’s the perfect place to sunbathe, relax and enjoy the beach during the daytime and catch up with friends at night. Just writing about it makes me want to visit again in a few years’ time. At this rate I am never going to visit the Taj Mahal!